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Advanced technologies for sewing seamless garments

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Sew seamless towels? Sounds incredible, doesn’t it? However, the fact is that sleeves and cutouts require traditional sutures with thread and needle. However, Italian knitting technology creates beautiful designs that offer fashion with a basic function. The soft microfibers used in these fabrics require certain threads and improved sewing technology for elasticity.

Seamless clothing has changed the entire global production process. This technology can produce finished products directly and reduces the traditional production process. This leads to savings in production costs of up to 40 percent compared to conventional knitting. The seamless knitwear has a tubular shape, which consists of elastic yarns, which are placed in the welt strips and made in the compressed areas.

Circular knitting machines have been used mainly by underwear manufacturers since circular knitting technology began in the early 19th century. But in the 80s, manufacturers in Italy merged the floatation technology for lace and heels of socks with inlays for swimwear, underwear and outerwear. The mechanical engineering company Santoni in Brescia is currently the market leader. Although other companies such as Sangiacomo, Italy and Merz, Germany, are also famous players in similar knitting machine technologies.

In just three years, the production of seamless underwear range in 2001 reached nine percent of total global production in this segment, compared to two percent in 1998, with an increase of 18 percent in 2003. In 2007, the underwear industry segment is likely to be Santoni reported reaching 35 percent.

As part of the training and further education, the Santoni Group held courses at the Machina Fashion and Design Institute in Brescia. The courses focus on software-oriented designs and machine developments. The Santoni Training Center has become a workplace for innovation and prototype development, which are tested by consumers and stylists, and which are manufactured and sold on the open market.

Santoni tried on seamless pants and bras, but the results were not so positive because the diameter of the machines only allows small sizes. However, this led to many interesting results such as frills, fringes and designs.


Because the main products such as underwear, outerwear and swimwear are highly elastic, fine to very fine fabrics made of microfibers, which have to be very stretchy and soft.

All major sewing thread manufacturers have developed suitable products.

Alterfil has developed a 100% textured polyester yarn “Alterfil T” for needles and hooks. The combination of Alterfil T and Alterfil B in a needle and hook is recommended.

The Coats introduced Coats Eloflex, which is made from polybutylene terephthalate (P.B.T.). It was developed for elastic knitted fabrics and is characterized by the best strength and elasticity. This could be used for both bobbin thread and needle.

GOtermann has introduced a striking seam with a bright metallic effect. The in-depth examination has shown that a mixture of the ‘Piuma’ microfiber thread and the GOtermann W 331 metal thread delivers an excellent result with a 2 or 3-needle stitch.

It is skin-friendly, without irritation. The 127 available Piuma colors and 12 W 331 colors (in some cases multicolored) produce a wide range of color permutations.

Amann, Germany, developed the new innovative elastic sewing thread “saba FLEX”. It consists of 100 percent PTT continuous thread and is available in 2 versions: 80tex and 120tex for all types of elastic fabrics.

Reutex, Germany, offers the new elastic microfiber thread for needle and hook “Softex 120”.

Join options

Welding, gluing and heat sealing are other options than the usual sewing method. However, these options have their elasticity limitations. Framis Italia, based in Italy, is known for its “NoSo” welding technology, which is based on gluing. It combines two substances. The adhesive tape is carried out together with the hot air welding. Framis recently launched the latest portable machine, EI Nino, for hot air welding.

The Swiss manufacturer Schips has introduced ultrasound devices. The first machine is HS C51 WHE-F8, which is designed for hemming, the second is the HS C52BCO, which continuously joins two fabrics together with an adhesive tape, and the third is HS C51 WFO, which welds folded elastic bands to release garments.

sewing machines

The sewing machine manufacturers were not overwhelmed by new technologies as expected. However, only a few machine manufacturers have taken initiatives to improve the technologies. The user-friendliness and flexibility initiatives are remarkable.

. AMF Reece, based in the Czech Republic, presented a chain stitch buttonhole lingerie tucker machine (5-4000 LT) to improve the finishing process of flat seams and flat seams. The excess flat locking seam is absorbed by the sensor control. The flat seam is cut and fully sewn on, and then the cut flat fastener chain is thrown into the waster.

. Italian sewing machine manufacturer CF has introduced Rimoldi, which is known for seamless sewing solutions. The concept consists of seven imaginative machines. The product range includes Vega II with 1 or 2 needles, Fenix ​​with 2 or 3 needles and its smaller imitation Mizar and Libra were specially developed for lingerie. Over Lock Machine Lyra is a 1 and 2 needle new inexpensive sewing machine. Gemini, a station with two self-governing, opposite heads, which coordinates to perform parallel binding, lace and elastic functions on both legs of panties or panties.

. Yamato from Japan brought the VGS machine onto the market with an extra higher transport, positive feeding of the thread for needles and changing times of the gripper movements. This can lead to the length of the threads in the seam being increased, which leads to a high degree of elasticity. When sewing a T-shirt, the UTL automatically makes the stitches tighter at the end of the sewing process and locks the seam.

. OOrkopp from Germany and Shanggong from China presented three new knitting machines, two high-speed lock stitches (GC8900-1 / A / H and GC8900 € 4-50) and the high-speed overlock machine SG700 / 704/714/716. The other has a certain difference in micro-feeding depending on the type of fabric being sewn

. Union Special, Germany, presented many machines for seamless garments. Underneath is a unique flat seam machine with 4 needle threads, which are removed from the arm with an upper cover thread for overlapping connection processes. The photocell controls the thread chain cutter on the back of the foot press.

. Pegasus, Japan, introduced the new special machine W562-020Bx232 / FT141 / MD641 / Y, with which adhesive tape can be tied over seamless garments. It is a 2-needle flat bed interlock sewing machine. The top cover thread has a fabric edge cutter with an elastic tip feed, which contains a stepper motor measuring device and an automatic tape / thread cutter.

. Schips introduced a mix of two machines, HS C3G / B, to simultaneously attach bindings from the right to the left leg.


Seamless products have a share in the fashion and functional clothing market and are not limited to the underwear segment. The new development is developing into a range of outerwear.

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